How should your shoes fit?

When it comes to finding the perfect shoe fit, there’s no one-size-fits-all answer. While there are objective factors to consider, the ideal fit is ultimately a personal experience—what feels right for one person might not work for another. This is why, despite advancements in technology like 3D scanning machines, they’ll never fully replace the expertise of bespoke shoemakers or the classic ritual of trying on shoes in person. Sometimes, the human touch is simply irreplaceable!

A machine can’t understand a person’s unique preferences when it comes to fit—it only analyzes data. And let’s face it, no two size 10s from different shoemakers ever fit the same. Fit is personal, subjective, and ultimately about how it feels to you. It’s not something that can be dictated by measurements or algorithms. You just know when it feels right—it’s instinct, not numbers..

• Tips for Finding the Perfect Shoe Fit
• When it comes to finding the right fit for your shoes, there are a few key things to keep in mind. Let’s break it down:
• Snug, Not Tight: For leather shoes, aim for a snug fit—think of it like a glove for your feet. You should feel the shoe gently hugging all around, not squeezing. Leather naturally stretches and molds to your feet over time, especially in the width and footbed. If the fit starts too loose, the shoes will end up sloppy, causing discomfort and potential foot issues.
• Feel the Shoe: A proper fit shouldn’t feel loose or wobbly. Don’t be afraid to feel the shoe around your foot—it should offer a secure and supportive fit without being restrictive.
• Heel Movement Matters: Your heels should have minimal movement. Lace-up shoes make this easier, but styles like loafers, monkstraps, and boots can take a little more breaking in. A bit of heel play is okay for these, as they’ll mold to your foot over time.
• Go Snug with Certain Styles: For chelsea boots, wholecuts, monkstraps, and loafers, it’s best to go for a snug fit. These styles tend to break in quickly and stretch more due to their design.
• Heel Slip is a No-Go: If your heels pop out or move significantly in loafers or lace-ups, the shoes are too big. Go down a half size to find the better fit.
• Arch Support is Key: When the arch is properly supported, it should feel subtle—like a gentle hug, not a sharp poke. If you feel pressure or a lump under your arch, the shoe’s arch support is in the wrong spot and could cause issues over time.
• Extra Toe Room is Fine: Don’t stress about some extra space in the toe box. Modern shoe designs often have elongated shapes, so your toes shouldn’t be crammed at the end. As long as the overall fit feels right, you’re good to go.
• Dress Socks Are a Must: Always try on dress shoes with thin dress socks. If you’re wearing thicker athletic socks, it could throw off your size by half. Bring a pair of dress socks with you if you’re shopping casually—it makes a difference!
• Fully Fasten Your Shoes: When trying on shoes, tighten the laces or fasten the straps properly. Don’t leave laces loose or use the wrong strap hole, as it can make the shoe feel incorrectly sized even if it’s perfect.
• Follow these tips, and you’ll not only get a better fit but also a much more comfortable experience with your shoes. Your feet deserve it!

Common Myths and Mistakes to Watch Out For:

• Forget the old “stick your finger in the back of the shoe” trick—it’s completely useless. If you want to properly assess fit, focus on heel play when the shoe is fully fastened. Let’s clear up some other common misconceptions while we’re at it:
• High instep? Don’t sweat the v-shaped gap.
• If you have a high instep, you’ll often see a noticeable v-shaped gap in the laces of oxford shoes. Ignore the online experts claiming this means a bad fit—they’ve likely never dealt with a high instep themselves. Could bespoke shoes solve this? Sure, but they’re not an option for everyone. As long as the arch, width, and overall depth fit well without causing pain, you’re good. That snug instep will relax as the shoe breaks in, allowing you to tighten the laces over time. It’s far worse to size up and end up with shoes that feel loose everywhere else. Fit is about balance, not perfection.
• Creases in the cap toe? Not necessarily a problem.
• Creases in the cap area don’t automatically scream “bad fit” or “low quality.” Design features like elongated cap toes, the placement of the toe puff, or a thinly skived toe puff can all cause creasing, too. Yes, poor fit can be a factor, but it’s not the only culprit. Don’t jump to conclusions.
• ● A shoe’s length will never stretch. Ever.
• If a salesman tells you a shoe that feels too short will stretch, walk away. That’s a myth. The toe puff ensures that the length of a shoe is set in stone. If it’s too short now, it’ll always be too short. Period.
• At the end of the day, trust how the shoe feels on your foot over random advice or outdated hacks. Good fit is about comfort and practicality—not what anyone else thinks.