Table of Contents
- Why Accurate Foot Measurements Matter for Custom Shoes
- What You’ll Need to Measure Your Feet at Home
- How to Measure Foot Length Step by Step
- How to Measure Foot Width at the Widest Point
- How to Measure Foot Girth for a Bespoke Fit
- Using a Custom Shoe Measurement Chart
- Common Measuring Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
- Sending Your Measurements to Your Shoemaker
- Frequently Asked Questions
Last Updated: October 21, 2026
Why Accurate Foot Measurements Matter for Custom Shoes
A shoe made to your exact measurements fits differently from anything off a shelf, and it lives or dies on the numbers you send your maker.
At Robert August, we build every pair to order, handcrafted in Spain, so the measurements you take at home are the blueprint our makers work from.
The stakes are higher than most people expect. A standard size chart collapses your foot into one length and one width; a custom last needs length, width, girth, and the shape of each foot separately.
Custom shoes are only as good as the measurements behind them. Take your time, measure both feet, and record every number before you order.
What You’ll Need to Measure Your Feet at Home
Gather your tools before you start. A short supply list keeps the process clean and repeatable.
- A sheet of paper larger than your foot
- A pencil, held at a slight angle
- A ruler or retractable tape measure
- A wall with clear floor space
- A helper, if you can find one
- A chair for seated measurements
- Socks you plan to wear with the shoes
Skip thick socks unless that is how you will wear the finished pair. Measuring barefoot gives the cleanest reading; if you always wear thin dress socks, measure in those and note it for your maker.
You do not need special equipment. A ruler and paper do the job, though a soft tape measure helps with girth. Keep everything on one flat surface so nothing shifts mid-measurement.
How to Measure Foot Length Step by Step
Foot length is the distance from your heel to your longest toe. Measure it standing, because feet spread under body weight. Here is the sequence we recommend.

- Place the paper against a wall on a hard floor.
- Stand with your heel lightly touching the wall.
- Keep your weight even on both feet.
- Have a helper mark your longest toe on the paper.
- Mark the back of your heel where it meets the wall.
- Step off and measure the distance between the two marks.
- Repeat on the other foot.
Measure to the nearest millimetre, a few millimetres of extra length changes how the toe box sits.
Do not pull the tape tight or let it sag. Keep it flat and straight. Write the number down immediately, before you forget which foot it came from.
Your longest toe is not always your big toe. Check the second toe too, especially if it sits forward of the first. Mark whichever toe reaches furthest.
How to Measure Foot Width at the Widest Point
Width is where most home measurements go wrong. The widest point is across the ball of the foot, not the middle or the heel. Measure it while standing.
Record the width for each foot. Note whether you measured barefoot or in socks. Your shoemaker needs to know which.
Some feet are wider at the ball and narrow at the heel, a common shape worth flagging.
How to Measure Foot Girth for a Bespoke Fit
Girth is the full distance around your foot at its widest part.
Wrap a soft tape measure around the ball of your foot, over the instep and under the arch, level and snug.
Girth captures volume, not just width. Two feet can share the same length and width but differ in height and arch. Girth catches that difference.
Record the instep height too if your maker asks, some request a second girth reading around the instep, just above the ball. Send both if you can.
Measuring girth while seated gives a smaller number than standing. Feet flatten and spread under load, so a seated reading can produce a shoe that pinches across the top. Measure standing unless your maker tells you otherwise.
Using a Custom Shoe Measurement Chart
A custom shoe measurement chart is a reference tool, not a sizing machine.
On a retail chart, a length and width land you in a box, and the box is the shoe.
Use the chart for three things:
- Error checking. If your length says one band and your girth says a band two sizes away, something is probably off in how you held the tape. Re-measure before sending.
- Reference sizing. Note your usual retail size alongside your measurements so the maker can see how your feet compare to standard lasts they already know.
- Band selection for girth. When length and girth land in different bands, flag the larger one. A last can be built up or taken in more reliably than a finished shoe can be stretched.
| Measurement | Where to Measure | Standing or Seated | What It Informs |
|---|---|---|---|
| Foot length | Heel to longest toe | Standing | Last length, toe room |
| Foot width | Across the ball | Standing | Forefoot fit, last width |
| Ball girth | Around the ball and instep | Standing | Volume, instep comfort |
| Instep girth | Around the instep, above the ball | Standing | Top-of-foot clearance |
| Heel width | Across the back of the heel | Standing | Heel hold, slip prevention |
| Arch length | Heel to ball | Standing | Last shape, support point |
The table lists six measurements, not four.
Many bespoke makers also ask for a tracing of each foot. It captures toe shape, bunion profile, and the curve of the arch in a way no tape measure can.
Research on virtual try-on systems, such as work published in the Informatics journal study on foot-detection measurement, shows that combining several foot dimensions produces a far better fit than length alone.
A custom shoe measurement chart is a cross-check, not a conversion table. Your numbers feed a last and a fit assessment, so send every dimension your maker asks for, and flag anything that looks inconsistent.
Common Measuring Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
Most bad measurements come from a handful of repeatable errors:
- Measuring seated when you should stand
- Pulling the tape too tight
- Marking the toe with the pencil angled outward
- Measuring only one foot
- Rounding numbers up or down
- Using a soft surface that lets the paper shift
The pencil angle matters more than people think. A pencil leaning outward adds length to your trace. Hold it upright or slightly inward.
Do not round your numbers. Send them exactly as measured, to the millimetre. Your maker can interpret precision. They cannot recover information you rounded away.
Measure at the end of the day. Feet swell slightly over the course of the day, and an evening reading is closer to how your feet feel when you are on them. Measuring first thing in the morning can give you a shoe that feels tight by afternoon.
Sending Your Measurements to Your Shoemaker
Your numbers are only useful if your maker can read them, trust them, and act on them. That means submitting a repeatable, clearly labeled record and closing the loop with a fitting or trial shoe before production.
Build a repeatable measurement record
Before you send anything, run your measurements twice on separate days, ideally one in the morning and one in the evening. Feet swell over the course of a day, so two readings give your maker a range rather than a single snapshot. If the sets differ by more than a few millimetres, re-measure a third time and send all three with a note.
A simple worksheet keeps this organized. For each foot, record:
- Length (heel to longest toe)
- Width across the ball
- Ball girth
- Instep girth
- Heel width
- Arch length
- Whether you measured barefoot or in socks
- Time of day and date of each reading
Label every line left or right. A maker who receives two unlabeled sets of numbers has to guess, and guessing defeats the purpose of custom work.
A photo checklist to send with your numbers
Photos catch what numbers miss, toe shape, bunion profile, arch height, and how your foot sits on the paper. Include:
- A top-down photo of each bare foot on the tracing paper, with the outline visible
- A side photo of each foot showing instep height
- A photo of the tracing itself, labeled left and right, with a ruler laid alongside for scale
- A photo of any bunion, corn, or old injury you want the maker to account for
Keep the camera directly above the foot for the top-down shot. An angled phone adds perspective distortion and makes the tracing look longer or shorter than it is.
What to write in your submission
Alongside the worksheet and photos, include:
- Your usual retail shoe size as a reference point
- Any pressure points, bunions, or old injuries
- The style of shoe you are ordering and the socks you plan to wear with it
- Any asymmetry between feet, with both sets of figures
- A note on which foot you consider larger
Ask your maker how they want the numbers formatted. Some prefer a filled-in form, others a simple list, and some want the tracing mailed physically. Following their format speeds up the build and reduces transcription errors.
Confirm before production
A good maker will confirm receipt and may ask follow-up questions before cutting leather. Treat that exchange as part of the measurement, not an inconvenience. If your numbers look inconsistent, say, a length that does not match your girth, a careful maker will flag it rather than build to a bad reading.
Validate the fit before the final pair
Measurements inform a last, but they do not guarantee fit on their own. Many bespoke makers offer a fitting or a trial shoe in a less expensive material before building the final pair, use it.
If a trial shoe is not part of your maker’s process, ask about their adjustment policy before you order. Knowing how pressure points are resolved, a last adjustment, a stretch, a remake, sets realistic expectations and tells you what to watch for when the shoes arrive.
Do not round your numbers or “correct” an asymmetry to make the two feet match. Send exactly what you measured, to the millimetre. Your maker can interpret precision; they cannot recover information you rounded away.
That is the full loop: measure twice, record every dimension, photograph the shape, label both feet, confirm with your maker, and validate the fit before the final pair is built. Do that, and your custom pair has the best possible chance of fitting the way it should.
Frequently Asked Questions
Should you measure your feet standing up or sitting down?
Guidance differs on this point. A Naples podiatry guide recommends measuring while standing because feet flatten and spread under body weight, while bespoke outline instructions from The Shoe Snob suggest sitting normally with feet firmly on the ground without adding full body weight. The research does not establish which method is best for custom-shoe measurements. For consistency, pick one method and use it for every measurement you submit to your shoemaker.
Do you need to measure both feet for custom shoes?
Yes. Most people have one foot slightly larger than the other, and custom shoes are built to accommodate that asymmetry. Measure both the left and right foot separately, then record each set of numbers. Your shoemaker will use the larger foot as the base and adjust the smaller one accordingly. Never average the two feet into a single measurement, as this can produce a fit that is too tight on one side.
What measurements do you need for bespoke shoes?
A custom shoe measurement chart typically requires foot length from heel to longest toe, foot width at the widest point (the ball of the foot), and foot girth around the instep. Some makers also ask for heel width, arch length, and a traced outline of each foot. Researchers publishing in Informatics in 2023 described a virtual try-on system that combined seven foot dimensions, which shows how many data points a precise fit can involve. Follow your shoemaker’s specific chart.
When is the best time of day to measure your feet?
Measure your feet later in the day, when they have had time to swell from walking and standing. Feet expand over the course of the day, so a morning measurement can come out smaller than your true size. Wear the socks you plan to pair with the shoes, and take each measurement two or three times to confirm repeatability. Recording the date and time alongside your numbers helps your shoemaker interpret any variation.
Getting the measurements right is the first step. The second is choosing a maker who knows what to do with them. At Robert August, every pair is made to order and handcrafted in Spain, so your numbers become a shoe built around your foot, not a standard last. Our made-to-order process lets you shape the style, leather, and fit to match how you actually live, with free shipping worldwide. Browse our collection and start your pair with measurements you can trust.



